Genji Monogatari

Perhaps the world’s first novel, the “Tale of Genji” describes Heian era Japan through a peek into the life of it’s protagonist, a prince at the Imperial court. Without having visited Japan, my first impressions of this book were unfavorable as I found the arcane details of a distant culture difficult to relate to. After being in Japan and learning of the historical context, I’m able to better appreciate the novel and the times it represents.

In the Heian era aristocratic families such as the Fujiwara , ruled the country before the rise of the Samurai class. Their tastes and mores appear to place emphasis on aesthetics and refinement above the well known Samurai values such as simplicity and self restraint.

An excellent discussion of the era with a somewhat revisionist perspective on the dynamics of the society can be found in this book.

Much of the latter part of the Genji Monogatari takes place in Uji located about halfway between Kyoto and Nara. Now a small town seeking to attract tourists visiting it’s more famous neighbors, Uji highlights it’s connection to the novel through a museum, an annual play based on the book, dances, symposiums, book tours and cultural events.

Even the street signs have images of the prince and his lovers.

If you visit Uji make certain to also visit Byodo-in, the Phoenix Hall Temple, built by a member of the Fujiwara family in his devotion to the Pure Land sect of Buddhism.

A final attraction of Uji for me is it’s renowned Green Tea, cultivated since the 14th century by order of Shogun Ashikaga Yoshimitsu.