Having been the capital of Japan for over a 1,000 years Kyoto is replete with Temples and Shrines patronized by the powerful who ruled the land. Kaiseki takes the simple vegetarian fare eaten by monks and creates a culinary experience of differing tastes. textures, colors and flavors.
Thanks to the sophisticated palates of those wealthy enough to receive such favors over the centuries, Kyoto now has an abundance of Kaiseki restaurants catering to the rest of us who are not as fortunate. Assuming that money is an object for you, I recommend skipping the ryokan mentioned in the article in favor of spending that money on Kaiseki around the city.
The writer of the article recommends a place in touristy Gion but I actually like those around Nanzen-ji in Higashiyama, on the Eastern slopes of the hills surrounding Kyoto. This area has a more relaxed ambiance reflecting its past as the preferred location of aristocrats building their villas to escape from the city's heat, noise and social pressures. Many of these compounds were transformed into temples after their owner's demise and attracted a variety of traditional arts and crafts that have been practiced here for a quite a while.
This is Okutan where on a beautiful day I sat outside under a parasol enjoying the maples turning colors. The meal consists of items like dengaku, tofu with sweet miso sauce and yudofu, a ceramic pot of tofu and vegetables simmered at your table. For those who are vegetarians by the way most Kaiseki establishments outside of temples use fish byproducts in their dishes so its best to check before you eat.
Another great place to sample the local cuisine is in tea houses located in many temple grounds around Kyoto. This is the yudofu at Ryuan-ji, which I think is one of the best places to go to.
For those enjoying irony, one meaning of the word Kaiseki refers to a heated stone worn by monks near their body to relieve their hunger pangs.
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